a quick message to let you know I've arrived in Krakow.
I am very happy with the first leg of my journey thus far. Many friends,
excitement, danger, depression, exhilleration and extensive personal
development. A well-spent 3 weeks. :-)
Expand that to 3 months, and... hm. who knows.
Krakow is incredibly beautiful: very old, castles, cobblestone streets, ancient churches, plenty of room to relive my princess fantasies. I was right in wanting to live here if I was to stay a year in one place abroad. It was exactly what I needed, this change of scene. I was getting to the point in Lodz where I was feeling very comfortable and wanting to completely relax, yet knowing I shouldn't because the departure would be harder. 2 weeks is a very good period of time. From my dear friend Olga on my departure,"If all Americans are like you, then I love them all."
The first experience I had in Krakow was of a new-age bazaar, where healing crystals, tantric readings and incense appeared at every corner. Andrzej (my host) considers himself "new-age", does yoga, and is trying to start a raw diet (only raw food). The majority of the people at my previous job were vegetarians. I have to actively pursue traditional Polish cuisine. I realize my experiences here are not stereo-typically Polish, but it is nice to see alternative cultures sprouting up.
Youth are taught here to despise the recent history of their country (WWII) and the traditions associated with Communism. These communist memories are the only ones the eldest generation knows, so there is no-one to teach the pre-Communist and inherently "Polish" way of life to the current and future generations. As youth know only that they are not to look backwards for culture, and looking easteard (Russia) is just a reinforcement of the "bad" traditions, the West is seen as the beacon for modern culture.
I asked Andrzej if the Neo-Pagan, New Age lifestyle is popular here in Krakow, or Poland in general. He said it was becoming so a few years ago, but the Church stepped up its campaign against it because it was drawing a large crowd. Now it is considered "Anti-Polish" and "cult-ish" to practice eastern medicine and do essentially anything non-Catholic.
I would like to personally thank the gang at Willard Way for helping me break the ice with alcohol, and Jason and Jacek for pushing me farther along because as of last night I now know the meaning of "pub-crawl." Not something I'd do all that regularly, but a good authentic experience nonetheless. ;-)
The pubs here are amazing! most are subterranean, and going down underground to a few small rooms with walls of ancient cobbled stones, the dim light of candles on old heavy gilt candlesticks, lots of smoke, everyone wearing black, heavy eye makeup, American trance or house music, is quite a thrill. Of course, going to 7 or 8 pubs, and taking off and putting on your sweaters and coat that many times can be annoying, but it's all part of the ritual.
Today I took a brief walk alone and turned a corner to see yet another
wonderfully ancient street, old stone buildings leaning towards and away
from the cobble-stone street, church steeples in the distance, and this
time, beautiful classical music. I leaned against the wall, and as there
was no -one around imagined myself here 200 years ago: the wonderful
clothing, no McDonalds, Nike, Pizza Hut stores, horse-drawn carriages,
incredible music... the streets would of course look exactly the same
(minus the american stores).
ah me.
one last thing: my work here in Krakow is with Zielone Brygady (Green Brigades), a well-known environmental publishing house. I will be working on their website and proof-reading their English press. Each position I have is different in each city, but essentially it is all internet/database related in some way or another. After Krakow, I go to Budapest, Hungary, then maybe Bucharest, Romania, then Prague, Czech Republic, and perhaps finish in Vienna, Austria as my flight from Warsaw goes through Vienna, and I could just board there.
Love to you all, and remember: do what your heart tells you; it's incredibly fulfilling, and you can only grow from adventure. :-)
-Angelica (I'm much happier now, if you couldn't tell)